Receiver Hitches

Receiver Hitches – RV Trader Accessories Store

A receiver hitch is the foundation of your entire towing setup. Everything downstream - the ball mount, the hitch ball, the trailer connection - depends on having the right hitch bolted to the right vehicle with the right weight rating for the job. Get that part wrong and it doesn't matter how good the rest of your towing gear is.

Every receiver hitch in this collection comes from Rigid Hitch, which sources from Draw-Tite, Curt Manufacturing, Blue Ox, and its own American-made line - all built to SAE J684 towing standards and rated by class. Whether you're towing a lightweight popup camper with a family SUV or pulling a loaded travel trailer behind a full-size truck, this is where the setup starts.

Not sure what RV you're towing yet? Browse RV listings on RVTrader.com to find your rig first - then come back and match the hitch to the trailer.

What Is a Receiver Hitch?

A receiver hitch is a vehicle-mounted towing component that bolts to your frame (or unibody subframe) and provides a square steel tube - the receiver - that accepts ball mounts, bike racks, cargo carriers, and other towing accessories. The receiver tube is the standardized opening that makes the entire ecosystem of hitch-mounted gear possible.

Most receiver hitches are vehicle-specific. They're engineered to match the mounting points, frame geometry, and load ratings of a particular make, model, and year - which is why a hitch that fits a 2018 Toyota RAV4 won't bolt directly onto a 2018 Honda CR-V. That fitment specificity is also what ensures the hitch transfers towing loads correctly to the frame instead of stressing body panels or subframe points that weren't designed for it.

The receiver tube itself is sized by class. Knowing your hitch class tells you what accessories fit, what ball mounts work, and how much you can tow and carry.

Receiver Hitch Classes Explained

Hitch class is the most important spec to understand before you buy. It tells you three things at once: the receiver tube size, the gross trailer weight (GTW) rating, and the tongue weight (TW) rating.

Class I - 1-1/4" receiver: Designed for light-duty vehicles - compact cars, small crossovers, and sedans. GTW ratings typically run up to 2,000 lbs with tongue weights up to 200 lbs. Appropriate for small utility trailers, lightweight bike racks, and cargo carriers. Not suitable for camper towing.

Class II - 1-1/4" receiver: Same tube size as Class I but with higher ratings - typically up to 3,500 lbs GTW and 350 lbs tongue weight. Fits mid-size cars, small SUVs, and minivans doing light trailer work. Shares the 1-1/4" receiver opening with Class I, so accessories are interchangeable within that tube size.

Class III - 2" receiver: The most common class for RV and camper towing. GTW ratings run 3,500 to 8,000 lbs depending on the vehicle and hitch, with tongue weights from 350 to 800 lbs. Fits trucks, full-size SUVs, vans, and larger crossovers. A properly spec'd Class III setup handles most travel trailers, popup campers, and small fifth wheels.

Class IV - 2" receiver: Built for heavier applications on larger trucks and SUVs. GTW ratings typically run 10,000 to 14,000 lbs with tongue weights up to 1,400 lbs. The receiver tube is the same 2" as Class III, but the hitch itself is heavier duty, with thicker steel and more robust mounting hardware. Appropriate for larger travel trailers, toy haulers, and loaded cargo.

Class V - 2-1/2" receiver: Heavy commercial and maximum-duty towing. GTW ratings run 16,000 to 20,000+ lbs. Used on heavy-duty pickups (Ford F-250/350/450, Chevy 2500HD/3500HD, Ram 2500/3500) set up for maximum towing. The larger receiver accepts Class V-specific accessories and commercial-grade ball mounts.

One rule that always applies: your tow vehicle's rated capacity is the ceiling, regardless of hitch class. A Class IV hitch on a vehicle rated to tow 7,500 lbs doesn't let you tow 12,000 lbs - the lowest-rated component in the chain determines what's safe.

Types of Receiver Hitches

Standard Rear Receiver Hitches

The most common configuration. The hitch mounts to the rear of the frame and provides a receiver opening for ball mounts, bike racks, cargo carriers, and other accessories. These are vehicle-specific - designed to use existing frame mounting points or add new ones without modifying the frame. Standard hitches in this collection include Rigid Hitch's American-made line, Draw-Tite Max-Frame receivers, and Curt Manufacturing custom-fit hitches for a wide range of trucks, SUVs, and vans.

Front Receiver Hitches

Less common but genuinely useful for certain applications - pushing a snow plow, mounting a winch, using a front-mounted bike carrier, or pulling a trailer in tight spaces where backing is impractical. Front hitches mount to the front frame rails and are always vehicle-specific. Ratings are generally lower than rear hitches on the same vehicle.

Commercial and Class V Hitches

For heavy-duty trucks doing maximum towing work. Curt's commercial-duty Class V receiver in this collection fits select Ford F-250/F-350/F-450 Super Duty models and is rated at the Class V level - the right spec for trucks set up to tow at their maximum rated capacity.

Bundle Kits

Several hitches in this collection come as bundle kits that include the receiver hitch, a matching ball mount, and a custom wiring harness for trailer lighting - everything needed to start towing in one purchase. Bundle kits are a practical option if you're setting up a towing package from scratch and want matched components that work together out of the box.

How to Choose the Right Receiver Hitch

Start with your vehicle. Receiver hitches are vehicle-specific. Use the fitment filter on this page to find hitches confirmed to fit your year, make, model, and submodel. Don't assume a hitch fits based on approximate vehicle similarity - frame mounting points and geometry vary more than they appear to.

Match the class to what you're towing. If you're buying a hitch to tow a travel trailer or camper, work backward from your trailer's loaded weight. Your gross trailer weight (GTW) is the trailer's fully loaded total weight. Your tongue weight (TW) is the downward force at the hitch - typically 10-15% of GTW. Both need to fall within the hitch's ratings, and within your tow vehicle's rated capacity.

Check receiver tube size before buying accessories. If you already own a ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier, confirm it fits a 2" receiver before assuming your new hitch will work with existing gear. Class I and II hitches use 1-1/4" receivers; Class III through IV use 2"; Class V uses 2-1/2". An adapter can bridge from a larger to a smaller tube, but not the reverse.

Consider ease of installation. Most vehicle-specific hitches bolt to existing frame holes with no drilling. Some applications on older vehicles or unusual platforms may require minor modification - the product listing will note this. If you're not comfortable with the install, a hitch-specific shop can typically handle it in 30 to 60 minutes.

How to Install a Receiver Hitch

Most vehicle-specific receiver hitches install with basic hand tools - a socket set, torque wrench, and in some cases a floor jack to raise and support the vehicle. General steps apply across most applications:

Position the hitch against the frame mounting points and start all bolts by hand before torquing any of them. Thread-in sequence matters - torquing one bolt fully before the others are started can misalign the mounting plate. Once all bolts are started and the hitch is correctly seated, torque each fastener to the manufacturer's specification using a torque wrench. "Tight enough" isn't a torque spec - under-torqued hitch bolts can loosen under towing load.

On trucks and larger SUVs, the hitch may need to be slid into position from below while supported on a jack stand or floor jack. Some installations on vans and minivans require temporarily removing a fascia clip or trim panel for clearance. Your hitch's instruction sheet will flag vehicle-specific steps.

After installation, verify the receiver tube is level (or within spec for your specific hitch), the safety chain loops are accessible, and the electrical plug position is clear of the trailer coupler path.

The first time you tow after installation, pull over after 10-15 miles and re-check all mounting hardware for tightness. Hardware can settle under initial towing load.

Receiver Hitch Maintenance

Anti-seize on the receiver tube interior. A film of anti-seize applied inside the receiver tube prevents the ball mount shank from bonding to the receiver after seasons of use, moisture, and road salt. This makes removing and swapping accessories dramatically easier and prevents the frustration of a stuck shank.

Inspect the mounting bolts annually. Towing loads are dynamic - vibration and flex work fasteners in ways that static loads don't. Check hitch mounting bolts at least once per season and after any heavy towing event. Replace any fastener showing corrosion, deformation, or thread damage.

Keep the receiver tube clear. When not in use, a receiver tube plug keeps moisture, road debris, and salt from accumulating inside the tube. Most hitch-mounted bike rack and cargo carrier accessories include a plug - if yours didn't, they're inexpensive and worth having.

Watch for rust and surface corrosion. Powder-coated hitches shed surface rust well, but any chip or scratch in the coating creates a corrosion start point. Touch up bare metal with spray paint rated for metal to slow the process. Significant rust at the mounting points or receiver tube walls warrants closer inspection before continued towing.

FAQ

What is a receiver hitch? A receiver hitch is a vehicle-mounted towing component that bolts to the frame and provides a square steel tube - the receiver - that accepts ball mounts, bike racks, cargo carriers, and other towing accessories. It's the standardized interface between your vehicle and the entire towing ecosystem.

What is a Class III receiver hitch? Class III is the most common hitch class for towing travel trailers and campers. It uses a 2" receiver tube and is rated for GTW up to 3,500 to 8,000 lbs depending on the vehicle, with tongue weights up to 800 lbs. Class III hitches are appropriate for most tow vehicles doing general RV towing.

What is a Class IV receiver hitch? Class IV uses the same 2" receiver tube as Class III but is built heavier - more steel, more robust mounting hardware - to handle GTW ratings of 10,000 to 14,000 lbs. Appropriate for full-size trucks and large SUVs towing heavier trailers.

What size receiver hitch do I need? Start with your tow vehicle's rated towing capacity, then match a hitch class that covers your trailer's loaded weight and tongue weight. Most trucks and full-size SUVs use Class III or IV (2" receiver). Smaller crossovers and sedans use Class I or II (1-1/4" receiver). Heavy-duty trucks doing maximum-rated towing use Class V (2-1/2" receiver).

What size hitch receiver does an F-250 have? Most Ford F-250 Super Duty models come from the factory with a Class IV or Class V receiver - either 2" or 2-1/2" depending on the trim and tow package. Check the sticker on the hitch body or your owner's manual for the confirmed receiver size and rating for your specific year and configuration.

What size receiver hitch does a Silverado 1500 have? Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models typically come equipped with a Class III 2" receiver hitch. The Silverado 2500HD and 3500HD step up to Class IV or V hardware with higher ratings appropriate for their heavier towing capacity.

How to measure receiver hitch size? Measure the inside dimension of the receiver tube opening. A 1-1/4" measurement means Class I or II. A 2" measurement means Class III or IV. A 2-1/2" measurement means Class V. Measure carefully - the tube size determines what ball mounts and accessories will fit.

How to stop receiver hitch rattle? Rattle comes from play between the ball mount shank and the receiver tube. An anti-rattle hitch pin, a hitch tightener insert, or a receiver sleeve can all reduce or eliminate the movement. The Rigid Hitch locking hitch pins in this collection are a direct solution - they hold the shank firmly without allowing the wobble that causes noise.

How to install a receiver hitch? Position the hitch against your vehicle's frame mounting points, start all fasteners by hand before torquing any of them, then torque each bolt to the manufacturer's specification using a torque wrench. Most vehicle-specific hitches use existing frame holes - no drilling required. See the installation section above for more detail, and always follow the instruction sheet included with your specific hitch.

How to remove a rusted receiver hitch? Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or equivalent) applied to the mounting bolts and allowed to soak overnight is the standard first step. Heat from a torch on the bolt head can help on severely seized fasteners. If the hitch itself is corroded to the frame, penetrating oil on the contact surfaces and a rubber mallet to break the bond are usually enough. Badly corroded bolts may need to be cut - a reciprocating saw or angle grinder with a cut-off wheel handles this.

Are receiver hitches universal? No. Receiver tube sizes are standardized (1-1/4", 2", 2-1/2"), but the hitch itself is vehicle-specific - it's engineered to mount to the frame geometry of a particular vehicle. Ball mounts and other accessories that slide into the receiver tube are interchangeable across all vehicles with the same tube size, but the hitch body itself must match your vehicle.

Should I grease my receiver hitch? Anti-seize compound on the receiver tube interior is recommended to prevent the ball mount shank from bonding to the tube. Avoid general-purpose grease on the receiver tube exterior or mounting hardware, as it attracts dirt and accelerates surface corrosion. Keep the hitch clean and the mounting hardware corrosion-free with periodic inspection rather than lubrication.

Ready to set up your tow vehicle? Browse the full receiver hitch collection above using the fitment filter for your exact year, make, and model. Once you have the hitch sorted, the ball mounts collection covers the drop, rise, and ball size you need to connect your specific trailer - every ball mount is from Rigid Hitch, made in the USA, and priced well below big box retail.

Running a fifth wheel? See our fifth wheel hitches for dedicated kingpin coupling systems. For the full picture on what makes a safe tow setup from hitch to trailer, RVTrader's towing guide and how to choose the right tow hitch are worth bookmarking before your first trip.

Don't have your tow vehicle's trailer matched yet? Search travel trailers, fifth wheels, and popup campers on RVTrader.com - knowing your trailer's loaded weight is the first step to buying the right hitch.