Trailer Hitches – RV Trader Accessories Store

A trailer hitch is the starting point for every tow setup - and a broad category that covers everything from a basic lawn mower tow ring to a receiver-mounted pintle hook rated for 42,000 lbs. Buying the wrong component doesn't just mean a poor fit: it means a connection that can fail under load, or hardware that won't accept the ball mount or coupler your trailer actually requires.

This collection covers the full range of trailer hitch hardware from Rigid Hitch, Blue Ox, Curt Manufacturing, and KFI - receiver hitches, ball mounts, hitch balls, hitch pins, pintle hooks and mounts, coupler locks, lawn mower hitches, loading ramps, and the accessories that tie a complete towing setup together. Every product is in-stock and ready to ship.

Not sure which RV you'll be towing yet? Browse travel trailers, fifth wheels, and toy haulers on RVTrader.com first - knowing your trailer's loaded weight is what determines which hitch class and ball size you actually need.

What Is a Trailer Hitch?

A trailer hitch is any vehicle-mounted device that creates a connection point between a tow vehicle and a trailer. The term covers a wide range of hardware: receiver hitches that bolt to the frame and accept ball mounts, pintle hooks that connect via a lunette ring for heavy-duty towing, fifth wheel hitches that use a kingpin-and-jaw connection in the truck bed, and basic fixed drawbars for applications like lawn tractors. What they share is a purpose - transferring towing load from the trailer to the tow vehicle's frame in a controlled, rated way.

For RV and recreational towing, the receiver hitch with a ball mount is the standard setup. A square steel receiver tube accepts accessories - ball mounts, bike racks, cargo carriers - that slide in and pin. When you're not towing, those accessories come out and the receiver tube stays. The system's flexibility is what makes it so widely used across cars, trucks, SUVs, and vans.

Trailer Hitch Classes: What the Numbers Mean

Hitch class is the most important spec in any towing setup. It tells you the receiver tube size, the gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity, and the tongue weight (TW) limit for the hitch - and it tells you what ball mounts and accessories will physically fit.

Class I - 1-1/4" receiver, up to 2,000 lbs GTW: Designed for compact cars, small crossovers, and sedans doing light-duty work. Appropriate for bike racks, small cargo carriers, and very light utility trailers. Not a camper-towing setup.

Class II - 1-1/4" receiver, up to 3,500 lbs GTW: Shares the same tube size as Class I but with higher ratings. Found on midsize sedans, minivans, and smaller crossovers. Can handle a small pop-up camper or folding trailer at the low end of the weight range.

Class III - 2" receiver, up to 3,500-8,000 lbs GTW: The most common class for RV towing. Fits trucks, full-size SUVs, and larger crossovers. A properly matched Class III setup handles most travel trailers, popup campers, and smaller toy haulers. When used with a weight distribution system, a Class III hitch can be rated to 10,000 lbs GTW on compatible vehicles.

Class IV - 2" receiver, up to 10,000-14,000 lbs GTW: Same tube size as Class III but built heavier - thicker steel, heavier mounting hardware. For full-size trucks and large SUVs doing serious towing. The step up to Class IV matters when tongue weights or loaded trailer weights push into ranges a standard Class III isn't designed for.

Class V - 2" or 2-1/2" receiver, up to 17,000-20,000 lbs GTW: Heavy-duty applications on trucks configured for maximum towing. The larger 2-1/2" receiver accommodates Class V-specific ball mounts and commercial accessories. Appropriate for very large travel trailers, heavy toy haulers, and loaded equipment trailers.

One rule applies across all classes: your tow vehicle's rated capacity is the ceiling regardless of hitch class. Installing a Class IV hitch on a vehicle rated to tow 7,000 lbs does not allow you to tow 12,000 lbs. The weakest-rated component in the chain - vehicle, hitch, ball mount, ball, or coupler - is the limit.

Types of Trailer Hitches in This Collection

Ball Mounts

A ball mount is the removable steel shank that slides into the receiver tube and holds the hitch ball. It bridges the height difference between your receiver opening and your trailer coupler, keeping the trailer level while towing. Drop, rise, shank length, and weight rating all need to match your specific tow vehicle and trailer combination.

Rigid Hitch ball mounts in this collection cover 2" receivers in drop/rise configurations from 2"/3/4" up to 4"/2-3/4", all made in the USA from structural steel with powder coat finish. The full ball mounts collection covers the complete range of drop sizes, weight ratings, and assembly kits.

Hitch Balls

Hitch balls are the chrome or zinc-plated steel spheres that thread into the ball mount platform and connect to the trailer coupler. Ball size must match the trailer coupler exactly - the three common sizes for RV and recreational towing are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Travel trailers typically use a 2" coupler; heavier trailers and many toy haulers require 2-5/16". The ball size is stamped or labeled on your trailer's coupler.

The RockerBall cushioned hitch balls in this collection add a rubberized cushion layer around the ball body, absorbing road shock and reducing coupler wear - a practical upgrade for long-distance towing or trailers with sensitive cargo.

Hitch Pins and Locks

A hitch pin secures the ball mount shank inside the receiver tube. A standard bent-pin clip style is the bare minimum; a locking hitch pin adds a keyed or combination lock mechanism to prevent the ball mount from being removed. The 5/8" size fits Class III and IV 2" receivers; the 1/2" size fits Class I and II 1-1/4" receivers.

This collection includes Rigid Hitch barbell-style locking hitch pins in single and 4-pack keyed-alike configurations - practical when you have multiple vehicles or want all your locks on the same key. The anti-rattle hitch clamp for 2" receivers addresses the movement between the shank and receiver tube that causes the characteristic knock on rough roads.

Pintle Hitches

A pintle hitch uses a hook-and-ring connection rather than a ball-and-coupler setup. The hook mounts to the tow vehicle (either via receiver mount or direct plate attachment); the trailer's lunette ring drops into the hook and locks. Pintle connections allow more vertical and horizontal articulation than a ball hitch, making them the standard for construction, agricultural, military, and off-road towing where uneven terrain and heavy loads are both factors.

This collection includes:

• Pintle mounts - receiver-mounted adapter plates that accept a pintle hook at adjustable heights, fitting standard 2" receivers
• Pintle hooks - the hook itself, in standard and combination (pintle + ball) configurations for trailers that may need either connection type
• Rebellion XD pintle mount attachment - a heavy-duty accessory-mount pintle setup for off-road and overland towing applications
• Buyers combination pintle hook - a 6-ton receiver-mounted unit with an integrated 2-5/16" ball for trailers that use either connection type

For on-road RV and camper towing, a ball hitch is the right choice - pintle hitches are louder, require a matching lunette ring on the trailer, and are engineered for the heavy-load, rough-terrain use cases where their added articulation matters.

Receiver Hitches

A smaller selection of receiver hitches are available in this collection for common applications - including Rigid Hitch's universal lawn mower hitches for riding and zero-turn mowers, and a selection of vehicle-specific receivers. For the full range of vehicle-specific receiver hitches by class, make, and model, the receiver hitches collection is the right starting point.

Coupler and Security Locks

Trailer coupler locks prevent the coupler from being opened and attached to an unauthorized vehicle. The Blaylock coupler lock for 2-5/16" Bulldog Collar-Lok couplers and the Deadbolt Blockhead coupler lock both fit over the coupler when the trailer is parked, blocking the connection point. The Fifth Wheel Base Rail Lock secures the fifth wheel hitch rail against movement when not in use.

Loading Ramps

Steel and aluminum loading ramps for getting equipment, ATVs, or cargo into a truck bed or trailer. The center-folding steel mesh ramps (800 lbs per ramp rated) and tri-folding steel arched ramps (1,000 lbs capacity per pair) cover the range from getting a riding mower onto a flatbed to loading powersports equipment for a trip.

How to Choose the Right Trailer Hitch

Match class to your trailer's loaded weight. Work from the trailer's actual loaded weight - not its dry weight, not an estimate. Gross trailer weight is the fully-loaded total. Tongue weight is 10-15% of that. Both must fall within the hitch's ratings and within your tow vehicle's rated capacity.

Check the receiver tube size. Class I and II use 1-1/4". Class III and IV use 2". Class V uses 2" or 2-1/2". Ball mounts and accessories are not interchangeable between tube sizes without an adapter - and adapters are only appropriate for accessories, not for increasing capacity.

Get the ball size right. The hitch ball must match the trailer coupler. Look for the size stamped on the coupler throat - 1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16" are the most common. Mismatched ball and coupler sizes are one of the most common causes of trailer separation.

Consider whether you need weight distribution. Heavier travel trailers and fifth wheels that push into Class III/IV weight ranges often benefit from a weight distribution system, which spreads tongue weight forward to the front axle rather than loading only the rear. This improves steering response, braking, and tire wear on the tow vehicle.

Pintle vs. ball: know your trailer. If your trailer has a lunette ring, you need a pintle hook. If it has a coupler, you need a ball. Combination hitches handle both. For RV towing on paved roads, a ball setup is quieter and more appropriate.

How Much Does Trailer Hitch Installation Cost?

For a bolt-on vehicle-specific receiver hitch, parts typically run $150 to $400, with professional labor adding $75 to $150 on top - putting most straightforward installs in the $250 to $550 range all-in. The full range runs from around $250 to $1,300 or more, depending on vehicle and hitch type.

Vehicles that require frame drilling, fascia removal, or CAN-bus compatible wiring harnesses push costs higher. A basic Class I install on a compact car runs at the low end; a heavy-duty Class IV install on a full-size truck with custom wiring runs at the high end. Bundle kits in this collection that include the hitch, ball mount, and wiring harness together are a practical way to simplify both the shopping and the install.

Most vehicle-specific hitches are DIY-friendly - a socket set and torque wrench are the primary tools required. If you're not comfortable working under the vehicle, U-Haul, dealerships, and independent hitch shops can all handle installation. For the cleanest result, bring your own hitch parts from this collection and pay only for labor.

Can You Add a Trailer Hitch to Any Car?

Most vehicles can accept a trailer hitch - passenger cars, crossovers, SUVs, vans, and trucks. The limiting factors are the vehicle's structural capacity (which determines hitch class) and whether a vehicle-specific hitch is available for your year, make, and model. Unibody vehicles can accept hitches, but those hitches mount to reinforced subframe points rather than a dedicated frame rail, which is why the vehicle's rated capacity matters as much as the hitch's rating.

A small number of vehicles have structural or package constraints that limit hitch options - some compact sedans and EVs fall into this category. Check fitment against your specific vehicle before buying.

FAQ

What is a trailer hitch? A trailer hitch is any vehicle-mounted connection point that allows a tow vehicle to pull a trailer. The most common type is a receiver hitch - a frame-mounted component with a square steel receiver tube that accepts ball mounts and other accessories. Other types include pintle hooks, fifth wheel hitches, and gooseneck hitches for specific heavy-duty applications.

What is a Class III trailer hitch? Class III is the most common hitch class for RV and camper towing. It uses a 2" square receiver tube and is rated for GTW up to 3,500 to 8,000 lbs depending on the vehicle, with tongue weights up to 800 lbs. When paired with a weight distribution system, Class III can reach 10,000 lbs GTW on compatible tow vehicles.

What is a Class IV trailer hitch? Class IV uses the same 2" receiver tube as Class III but with heavier construction - more steel, heavier mounting hardware - for GTW ratings up to 10,000 to 14,000 lbs. Standard for full-size trucks and large SUVs doing heavy towing work.

What size trailer hitch do I need? Work from your trailer's loaded gross weight and tongue weight, then match a hitch class with ratings that cover both. Most trucks and full-size SUVs use Class III or IV. Smaller crossovers and sedans typically use Class I or II. Never rely on a higher-class hitch to exceed your tow vehicle's rated towing capacity.

What is a weight distributing trailer hitch? A weight distributing hitch is a Class III or IV receiver hitch used with a weight distribution system - a set of spring bars that transfer tongue weight forward to the tow vehicle's front axle and the trailer axles. This levels the vehicle under load, improving steering, braking, and tire wear when towing heavier trailers.

What is a gooseneck trailer hitch? A gooseneck hitch uses a ball mounted in the truck bed over the rear axle, rather than at the bumper. The trailer's curved neck connects from above. Gooseneck setups carry much higher weight ratings than bumper-pull configurations and are standard for heavy agricultural, livestock, and equipment trailers. See the gooseneck hitches collection for ball-in-bed setups.

How to install a trailer hitch? Most vehicle-specific receiver hitches bolt to existing frame mounting points using a socket set and torque wrench - no drilling required. Start all fasteners by hand before torquing any of them, then torque each bolt to spec in sequence. The first time you tow after installation, check all mounting hardware after the first 10-15 miles.

How much does trailer hitch installation cost? Parts typically run $150 to $400 for a standard receiver hitch. Professional labor adds $75 to $150 for most straightforward bolt-on installs, putting all-in cost in the $250 to $550 range for most applications. Complex installs involving custom brackets, wiring, or high-class hitches on heavy-duty trucks can reach $1,000 to $1,300.

Where to get a trailer hitch installed? U-Haul is widely available and handles straightforward installs. Dealerships, independent mechanics, and specialty hitch shops are all options - call ahead to confirm they work with customer-supplied parts if you're bringing your own hitch. Supplying the hitch yourself from this collection and paying only for labor is generally the most cost-effective approach.

How to stop trailer hitch rattle? Rattle comes from movement between the ball mount shank and the receiver tube. A no-tool anti-rattle hitch clamp (in this collection) applies pressure to the shank to eliminate the play. Locking hitch pins also reduce movement. Both are inexpensive fixes compared to the noise on every rough road.

Are trailer hitches universal? Receiver tube sizes are standardized - 1-1/4", 2", and 2-1/2" - so ball mounts and accessories that fit a 2" receiver work in any vehicle with a 2" receiver. The receiver hitch itself is vehicle-specific; it's engineered to mount to a particular vehicle's frame geometry. Ball mounts, hitch balls, bike racks, and cargo carriers are interchangeable across all vehicles with the matching tube size.

How to lock a trailer hitch? A locking hitch pin replaces the standard bent-pin clip and prevents the ball mount from being removed without the key. Coupler locks on the trailer side block the coupler from being attached to another vehicle. Both types of security hardware are in this collection.

Ready to complete your tow setup? Browse the full trailer hitch collection above, then pair your hitch with the right ball mount for your drop and trailer coupler height. If you're setting up a fifth wheel connection, the fifth wheel hitches collection covers dedicated kingpin systems. For a deeper look at matching hitch to tow vehicle before you buy, RVTrader's hitch types and ratings guide and 5 common trailer hitch mistakes are both worth reading first.

Don't have your rig yet? Search RVs on RVTrader.com - knowing your trailer's specs is the first step to buying the right hitch.